Torrontés is Argentina’s flagship white variety, and what makes it is unique is that the grape is inherently aromatic. There are certain varieties, all white, like Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Muscat, and Gewürztraminer that you can almost smell before you even put your nose in the glass, and Torrontés joins that list. The grape has specific terpenes, organic compounds that contribute significantly to a grape’s aroma and flavor, that are brought out even more during the winemaking process. Geraniol is the primary terpene, and you might have smelled something similar in a citronella candle or in rose essential oil. Torrontés also offers linalool, which evokes lavender, and nerol, which contributes citrus. In total, there are somewhere between 800 and 1000 chemical compounds in wine, which really sums up just how complex it can be. The Zolo Torrontés is light, delicate, and crisp, with – natch – white flower and geranium aromas plus lemon, lime, green apple, and white peach on the palate. It’s a quintessentially warm weather wine although at 13.6% ABV, it is powerful. Imbibe in a glass alongside the ceviche salad from El Matador.
Rosé season has arrived with this lively pink-hued wine crafted from Pinotage, South Africa’s signature grape. Pinotage is a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault (known as Hermitage at the time). It’s a fascinating story: Stellenbosch University professor Abraham Izak Perold brushed a male Hermitage flower against a pollen donor Pinot Noir in his garden of residence at Welgevallen Experimental Farm in 1925. You might think he would have done this in the university gardens, but no, he used his own gardens and then seemingly forgot his experiment. Two years later, Perold moved and left his wild, unkempt gardens behind; a young lecturer cycling by the residence (who did know about the experiment) came upon the seedlings and grabbed them before a landscaping team could tidy up. The crossing was then replicated in a lab setting, and Pinotage thrived! It combines the delicate but powerful Pinot with disease-resistant Cinsault, and it creates an exciting version in the Backsberg ‘Ella’ rosé. Wild strawberry and grapefruit open up on the palate with an addition of mint and something soft like bubblegum. Served with a Mediterranean platter of olives, this wine will shine even more.
The wine region of Alentejo in Portugal is the largest wine production area in Portugal, occupying nearly a third of the overall country. In addition to excellent red blends, Alentejo is also known for cork production. Portugal exports 60% of the world’s cork, and the evidence can be seen on the adorable label on the Casa Relvas ‘São Miguel do Sul.’ Not only is it made out of cork, but there is a napper resting under a cork tree, of which the estate has nearly 2000 acres, nearly three times the total of vines under acre there. The Relvas family believes they owe the environment “a debt of gratitude” and have been converting their vineyards to organic farming over time; they use nearby wetlands as a water recycling source and hundreds of Merino sheep weed (and fertilize!) the soil. This red blend is made from indigenous varieties Alicante Bouschet (for color), Aragoñez (one of Tempranillo’s many nicknames, adding red fruits and acidity), and Trincaderia (imparting spicy, herby notes and tannin). Red plum, cherry, spice, cedar, and tobacco are commonly experienced with this wine. Red beans and rice from The Catch would be a delectable pairing.
San Silvestro has been around since 1871 when Giovanni Sartirano first began to produce and sell wines in the Langhe region of Piemonte, in northwest Italy. Four generations of winemaking have made the brand important and reputable. While this region is known for Nebbiolo, the luscious Barbera grape is the most planted grape, accounting for 30% of total plantings in Piemonte. Already a food-friendly and approachable variety, by making it in an appassimento style, this ‘Passito’ Barbera has truly become extraordinary. When picked, the grapes were fully ripe and then were dried for several months indoors under warm, dry conditions until the water in each grape evaporated. This process concentrates the sugars, flavors, and acidity, and it contributes to a velvety mouthfeel. On the nose there are plush, ripe fruits, and the palate zings with blueberry, cherry jam, plum, vanilla, and red licorice. Something bold is needed to hold up to the ‘Passito,’ so the rack of lamb from Hannah’s Off the Square would be a remarkable accompaniment.
Sagrantino is a variety found mostly in Umbria, from central Italy, and it’s known as an intensely tannic, bold grape that also transmits high levels of antioxidants to its consumer. Combined with two other well-known Italian varieties, Primitivo and Sangiovese, it becomes a well-balanced dance that celebrates plush but rustic reds. The Bonnarigo line, crafted by our friends at Messina Hof, is more exclusive and experimental, focusing on the family’s heritage. “The Bonarrigo Family began making wine in Messina, Sicily over 200 years ago. For seven generations the Bonarrigos have produced wines of passion and heart. The tradition started in Italy, took root in America, and today the family continues crafting soulful wines in Texas while honoring its Italian lineage.” Marrying Old World grapes with modern techniques in a Texas setting, this wine is delicious, savory, and striking. With characteristics like tart cherry, dried herbs, stewed tomato, smoked meats, and spice, it will hold up nicely to Banksy’s Baked Ziti from Graffiti Pasta.
From the Markham Vineyards website: “With Bordeaux in our blood, it’s no surprise we were one of the first California wineries to grow and specialize in Merlot.” They have 260 acres of sustainably farmed vineyards and land, resulting in unique expressions of Merlot throughout the North Coast. This region experiences cool coastal breezes from the Pacific that temper the warm, sunny days, allowing the grapes to slowly ripen while retaining acidity. The soils, a mix of clay, loam, and gravel, contribute to structured but velvety tannins and mineral undertones. Such a diverse terroir brings complexity to the ‘Six Stack,’ which is rounded out by a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon, enhancing plush fruit like fresh raspberry and blueberry, dark cherry, and satsuma plum, and adding layers of depth, culminating in rich milk chocolate. By the way, Markham boasts an all-female winemaking team and women-led brand, including winemaker Kimberlee Nicholls, who has been there since 1993, and they partner with organizations that advocate for women's equity in the alcohol, culinary, and hospitality industries. Celebrate the sheer beauty of this wine with a pulled pork sandwich from Anderson’s.
We have another grape that has traveled across the globe to find a home in Luján de Cuyo, one of the most premium departments in Mendoza. Bonarda also has many nicknames (in California, it’s Charbano), but it started as Douce Noir in Savoie, France in the early 1800s. There are multiple Bonarda grapes in Italy, but apparently they are genetically different than this Bonarda (confused yet?). The variety is the second most planted red grape in Argentina, and it is on the rise in terms of production and popularity. What you are drinking is from Fincas Don Martino, and they are very much in the old school camp, wanting to match fruit with savory notes, like cigar box and leather. The fact that this wine is sourced from low-yielding old vines planted 99 years ago means that you will get intense concentration of flavor. To stand up to the savory aromatics, fruits like cherry, plum, fig, and blackberry abound, finishing with cardamom spice. Compared with a Malbec, Bonarda has lower tannins and higher acidity, and this rendition also has a welcome rusticity. Empanadas will go perfectly with the Martino ‘Viña Violeta’ Old Vine Bonarda.
The ‘Triple Junction’ is a wine like no other. Obsidian began in 2003 when founders Arpad Molnar, Peter Molnar, and Michael Terrien planted vines in an abandoned walnut orchard half a mile up in the Mayacama Mountains. While rocky soil is not that unusual in a vineyard, what they discovered was a ridge of obsidian glass throughout and that they were planting directly on an active volcanic shield. They embraced the geology of the place and the name, researching to determine how volcanic soil would impact the taste of their wines. And then they expanded even more, sourcing grapes from multiple volcanic sites. “The Triple Junction is rare convergence of three tectonic plates that form the subduction volcanoes of California and the Pacific Northwest.” Thus, the ‘Triple Junction’ Volcanic Red came in existence from three different states: California, Washington, and Oregon. It is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Malbec, 15% Petite Sirah, and 8% Tempranillo, and even the Hungarian oak barrels used for maturation were crafted from volcanic soils! This magnificent wine showcases the art of blending multiple varieties and sites to create something unique, conveying blackcurrant, black cherry, boysenberry, eucalyptus, black olive, chocolate, and graphite. A bison burger would be an excellent match for the ‘Triple Junction,’ but any juicy burger will be transcendent.
Apr 3, 2025 at 4:50 AM
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